By Christopher Payne
Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve is about a two-hour drive from St. John’s, and the view waiting at the end feels almost unimaginable. It is one of the busiest places I have ever visited, though not because of people, but because of birds.
With wingspans reaching up to almost two metres and body lengths of nearly one metre, Northern Gannets are among the largest seabirds found in Newfoundland and Labrador. They spend most of their lives at sea, routinely making dramatic dives that can reach depths of up to 72 feet in pursuit of fish. They are forces of nature, fast-moving and powerful. Often flying high above the ocean, they can be surprisingly difficult to spot from shore. Luckily, there is no difficulty getting an up-close look at them at Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve, and it is certainly worth the journey.
There are two ways to reach Cape St. Mary’s: either via Salmonier Line and along part of the Cape Shore, or through Whitbourne and down the Cape Shore from the opposite direction. Either way, you will spend your drive passing through a collection of quiet, charming communities. A personal favourite of mine along the route is the brown sand beach at Point Lance, which stretches nearly the length of the community. The beach is well worth a brief stop, offering a striking contrast to the rugged cliffs awaiting you farther down the shore. On a calm day, it is the perfect place to stretch your legs before continuing the journey. After a short drive from Point Lance, you will reach the turn-off for the reserve. From there, the road to the parking area remains quite narrow for nearly 10 kilometres, so caution is advised.
The entire ecological reserve sits atop towering cliffs, with well-maintained walking paths leading to the viewing area overlooking the sea stack known as Bird Rock. Before beginning the hike, visitors can stop at the interpretation centre near the lighthouse, where staff are eager to share information about the reserve, its wildlife, and the surrounding area. Before my first visit, I called the interpretation centre to ask about the weather. The advice I received was simple: if it is sunny in St. John’s, it will likely be foggy at Cape St. Mary’s, and vice versa. After visiting many times throughout the year, I have found this to be consistently accurate.
From the start of the roughly 15-to-20-minute hike, there is no mistaking your destination. A towering plume of birds rises into the sky long before the viewpoint comes fully into view. As you approach Bird Rock, you are first met with the unmistakable scent of the colony, which, in my opinion, is reminiscent of an aquarium or fish food. Then comes the sound as you slowly come into range of the thousands of birds calling out together in a chaotic symphony. Once you arrive at the viewpoint, it quickly becomes clear why people travel from all over to see it.
Rising from the ocean just offshore, the towering sea stack appears almost alive as thousands of Northern Gannets nest on its surface. The viewpoint area itself is quite small, but nothing prepares you for just how close the birds are. Along with the thousands of Northern Gannets nesting on Bird Rock, thousands of murres, kittiwakes, and other seabirds nest on the adjacent cliffs. Everything is in motion as the birds dive for fish, defend nests, glide along cliffside winds, bask in shifting sunlight or disappear into the fog that so often blankets the coastline. The viewpoint offers an immersive and ever-changing scene against the backdrop of the North Atlantic.
During the height of summer, you will likely share the viewing area with other visitors, as the reserve can be quite busy, particularly on weekends. I often choose to visit earlier or later in the season. Although there are usually fewer birds present, you are often rewarded with a less crowded experience and more space to enjoy the remarkable scenery. Another tip is to be prepared for changing weather conditions. The reserve sits high above the ocean, and conditions can shift quickly, so keeping a warmer layer of clothing in your vehicle is never a bad idea. It also doesn’t hurt to bring along a snack or two, as you can easily find yourself spending more time at Bird Rock than you originally planned.
Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve is one of Newfoundland and Labrador’s most remarkable displays of wildlife and natural beauty. If you find yourself in the area between late April and early October, few places offer an experience quite like this, and it is not to be missed.
