The lure, at least for me, can only be explained by the beauty, isolation, and weathered wood structures, as said, a photographer’s dream.  So many places I’ve wanted to visit and explore in Newfoundland and Labrador.  Photos from other people and Google earth maps have pushed me onwards over the past several decades to travel about twice yearly for 3-4 weeks each time.  Indian Burying Place was probably the first resettled outport to incite my obsession.  Well, I’ve been there twice now, thanks to Lloyd.  And since then, I’ve been to many other outports, including Petites, La Poile, Rencontre West (and East), Round Harbour, Little Paradise, Trap Cove, and Big Brook, each one beautiful and unique.  And still there are places on my bucket list, including Henley Harbour, Williams Harbour, Fischot Islands, and Great Harbour Deep.  In vain, I’ve been trying.   For example, I’d called Great Harbour Deep, but the two phone numbers were dead.  As for Henley Harbour, a guy in Lodge Bay told me he’d take me there for $2,000.  Too much!

Well, Cape St. Charles was also on my list.  I thought maybe I could hike there from Lodge Bay, about 9 miles.  But in Lodge Bay, I talked to a local, who told me he wouldn’t advise it because the trail was overrun and the bridges were broken.  So, I heeded his advice.   Then I contacted a boat charter in Lodge Bay, but the cost would be $1,000.  Battle Harbour would be a much better deal, though it too was quite costly, right up there with luxury resorts.  So, I booked a few days there and off I went on the ferry from Mary’s Harbour.  There, I managed to keep the high costs in check by skipping some meals.  Maddysen Campbell, Reservation Coordinator of the Battle Harbour Historic Trust, told me I could do that.  She was very nice and helpful!

On my second day in Battle, the weather was okay, somewhat sunny, so at 9:30 a.m., I put on a life jacket and off I went with skipper Kirby.  The cost was about $65.  So that was nice.  It took only about 20 minutes to do the three miles.  On the way, my hat had blown off into the water, but Kirby had kindly turned the boat around and actually managed to retrieve it. He let me off the boat on a dock in the Cove, where beautiful old weathered ruins here and there. On land, I began my hike around the Cove.  There, I spoke with a couple, who were working on their cabin.  They told me the hike over to the third cove would only take about an hour.  I continued exploring the Cove, the old schoolhouse, etc.  Then two unleashed dogs suddenly appeared on the path, barking up a storm, approaching me, then freakin’ jumping on me.  One of them was missing a leg, the other looked like a wolf.  Luckily they didn’t rip me apart.  Kirby still on the dock thankfully hollered at the owner, who called off the dogs.  And so, I gradually left the Cove, trekking up and down over boulders, peat, and sphagnum. The trail out of the Cove was not easy to find, even though the skipper had said there were two trails.  Eventually, I made it to the next cove, where a few weathered abandoned houses and stages.  I took plenty of photos and checked out the houses, went into a few with doors wide open, then continued onwards.

Finally, I arrived at the third cove, where very close by across the tickle was Walls Island.  At the last house, a guy was standing alone on the wharf splitting cod.  I asked if I could take his photo.  No problem.  Lewis Pye was his name, a cousin of the skipper.  We talked for a bit then at noon I walked over to the “Most Easterly Point of Mainland Canada.”  All alone there.  Perfect!  I sat on the bench and ate a sandwich.  Lewis had told me some guy had hiked the 9 miles from Lodge Bay, taking six hours to do it.  He also mentioned another guy had gotten lost in the woods and hills attempting the hike.  And they had to helicopter him out.  Well, at least that wasn’t me!  I should have asked Lewis if he could drop me off across the tickle on the island.  I’m sure he would have.  Walls looked very interesting with a number of weathered, abandoned dwellings.

Kirby arrived at the third cove, where I was, at 1:45 in the afternoon as planned.  I boarded the boat and off we went back to Battle Harbour.  There, I walked over to the Loft to work the internet, then over to the bunkhouse, and made a cup of coffee.  I managed to get the fire going again and relax, ever stoking the fire. Tomorrow, was supposed to be sunny, so that was a plus. Amazing how long the days seemed when I was on the road…