Making mayonnaise is not difficult, but requires technique. It relies on the successful combining of acid and oil with air. To avoid the common pitfall of the dressing “splitting,” always drizzle, never pour, and keep whisking the whole time – even while you add ingredients. Scientifically, the action of the whisk agitating the lecithin in the egg yolk and mustard creates the “glue” that emulsifies the oil and lemon juice together into a creamy mayonnaise (as opposed to an oil and vinegar dressing that separates out again after you shake it).

A food processor or blender can be used, but hand whisking is better. Put a damp tea towel under a medium-sized metal, ceramic or glass mixing bowl to hold it steady. Use a good-sized solid metal whisk. Take the lids off your oil bottles for ease of use. No need to pre-measure – you will know to stop adding oil when mayonnaise is creamy, thick, light and looks... well, like mayonnaise! Tasting will tell you whether you’d like more olive oil or neutral-flavoured oil.

Whisk together egg yolk, Dijon, sugar, salt and 1/4 tsp of the lemon juice. While whisking constantly, very slowly start to drizzle in the oil – drop by drop. You will see the mixture coming smoothly together and beginning to lighten. Continue adding oil as you whisk. Do not stop whisking throughout the entire process. Change hands if you need to. Once you have drizzled in about 1/3 of the oil, whisk in a little more of the lemon juice. You will see the mixture loosen and lighten. Then go back to drizzling oil. After drizzling another few tablespoons of oil, whisk in pepper and hot sauce. Taste and adjust. (If you add salt, add a little lemon juice in the same spot to dissolve the salt; it won’t readily dissolve in oil.) Continue to drizzle oil until mayonnaise is light, creamy and as thick as you like. (It will be yellower than store-bought mayo.) To preserve mayonnaise for longer, leave it on the counter for an hour before refrigerating. The acid environment of the mayo will kill any microbes. (If it’s a hot day in your kitchen, skip this step – your mayo could split in the heat.) Transfer to a glass jar or container and refrigerate for up to a week.

It’s easy to customize mayonnaise. Add minced garlic, or curry or fresh dill. Swap vinegar for lemon juice. Try lime zest, lime juice and chipotle powder for a southwest flavour; or garlic, ginger and a teaspoon of sesame oil for an Asian twist. You get the idea.